Morel Nyumen(Japanese classic): A Pacific Northwest Take on Japanese Somen in Broth

From Cold Somen in Seattle to Hot Nyumen in Osaka

I grew up eating somen noodles cold—chilled over ice with a soy dipping sauce. My mom made it all the time, especially on hot days in Seattle. Light, simple, and perfect when you wanted something refreshing.

But when I moved to Osaka to train in a traditional Japanese kitchen, I was introduced to the warm version: nyumen. We made it as staff meal all the time. Just a little dashi, leftover noodles, maybe some mushrooms or greens—nothing fancy, but exactly what we needed. Over time, it became my favorite kind of staff food: warm, honest, and always grounding.

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Why Nyumen Is a Kansai Favorite

In Kansai, including Osaka, Kyoto, and Nara, nyumen is part of the everyday table. It fits the region’s cooking style—light, balanced, and restrained. Unlike the bolder flavors of Tokyo or the thick broths of ramen, Kansai food is built on nuance and clean flavors.

Nara, in particular, is known for Miwa somen, one of the oldest somen traditions in Japan. So it makes sense that nyumen—hot somen in broth—feels right at home in this region.

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Why Kansai Loves Clear Broth: It’s in the Water

One reason Kansai cooking favors clear broths like dashi is the soft water. With a lower pH and fewer minerals, it’s ideal for making kombu and bonito dashi—you get maximum umami without bitterness or cloudiness. That’s why clear soup dishes like nyumen are so common in Kansai.

In Tokyo (Kanto), the water is harder, so the dashi tends to be stronger and darker. There, soba and richer broths are more common. But in Kansai, clarity and balance are key—and nyumen is a perfect reflection of that.

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Why We Slurp Noodles in Japan

Slurping noodles might sound loud, but in Japan, it’s the proper way to eat. It cools the noodles and lets you taste the broth as you inhale it—like drinking and smelling at the same time. That’s where the shape of the noodle matters too.

• Curly ramen noodles are great for rich, heavy soups—they trap broth.

• But for clear, subtle broths like dashi, thin noodles like somen are perfect.

• They pick up just enough broth with each bite, without weighing it down.

That’s the beauty of nyumen: it’s not just a dish—it’s a harmony between broth, noodle, and intent.

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My Pacific Northwest Version of Nyumen

This week, I went out foraging and brought back some fresh morels. They’re earthy, meaty, and perfect for braising in dashi. I simmered them in a soy- and mirin-seasoned broth, then finished it with grated ginger juice and black pepper for warmth and depth.

For the topping, I took inspiration from a pho shop tip my friend Nini shared—about how they serve green onion lard on the side. So I seared thin beef slices with garlic and green onion, then added a little nutritional yeast, black pepper, and a splash of yuzu juice to brighten it up.

It’s not traditional nyumen. But it’s inspired by my training, rooted in memory, and shaped by the season I’m cooking in now.

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Recipe: Fresh Morel Nyumen with Beef and Garlic

Servings: 2
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 15–20 minutes

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Ingredients

Morel Dashi Broth
Dashi stock (homemade or high-quality instant) .......... 2½ cups
Soy sauce ........................................................................... 2 tbsp
Mirin .................................................................................... 2 tbsp
Fresh morel mushrooms, sliced ............................... 3-4 pieces
Grated ginger juice .................................................... 1 tsp
Chrysanthemum leaf .................................................... 1-2 stalks chopped
Grated ginger .................................................... 1 tsp
Freshly ground black pepper ..................................... To taste
Salt ................................. to taste
Yuzu Juice(optional) ................................. 1teaspoon

Noodles
Somen noodles .......................................................... 1-2 bundles

Beef and Aromatics
Neutral oil (grapeseed or canola) ............................... 2 tbsp
Thinly sliced beef (ribeye or sirloin) ........................... 4 oz
Green onion, cut into 1-inch pieces ......................... 1 stalk
Salt ..................................................................................... ¼ tsp
Sansho or szechuan peppercorn(grinded) .......................... ½ tsp
Black pepper .................................................................... ½ tsp
Nutritional yeast ......................................................... ½ tsp

Garnish
Chopped cilantro ....................................................... To taste
Thai basil leaves ......................................................... To taste

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Instructions

1. Make the broth
   In a saucepan, combine the dashi, soy sauce, and mirin. Add the morels and bring to a gentle simmer. Let them braise for 8–10 minutes. Add chopped chrysanthemum leaves and simmer for another minuet or two. Turn off the heat and stir in the ginger juice and black pepper.
   

2. Cook the noodles
   Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook the somen for 2–3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Set aside in bowls.
   

3. Sear the beef and aromatics
   Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the beef and season with salt right away. Once the meat starts to brown, toss in the garlic and green onion. Stir-fry until everything is fragrant—about 1 minute. Add black pepper and nutritional yeast. Stir to combine, then finish with yuzu juice. Remove from heat.
   

4. Assemble the bowl
   Ladle the hot broth and morels over the somen. Spoon the beef and vegetables on top and add the extra oil in the pan. Garnish with cilantro, Thai basil, and toasted sesame seeds. Serve hot and slurp it all up.